I agree that there are definately method with which being CN is harder or easier. IMO I think the breakdown is something like this from easiest to hardest-I love being CN at Petrus, and always wondered why anyone wasn't color neutral, but then I started working on other methods and I realized the difficulties. In Roux, for example, I found that I really need to think about what the colors of the second 2x2x3 are going to be because sometimes I end up making the wrong one due to mislocated centers. I obviously always use the same EOline in ZZ, but I'm wondering if that will affect my Petrus CN. Any thoughts?
I feel like Petrus is the easiest method to be CN with because of the necessity for an optimal 2x2x2 block, and because it's easy to use lookahead to find specific colors, not necessarily specific pieces. For example, while I'm solving the 2x2x2 block, I'm thinking about the colors I'll need to expand, and while I'm finishing the 2x2x3, I'm already Idenifying bad edges since I only need to look for two colors.
Those are my thoughts anyway...
2. Fridich/LBL methods
My reasons for this are as follows:
Petrus- is the easiest because it was meant to be an optimal solve style method in which you find the shortest number of moves you can think of to get the cube solved. This means that being color fixed would really limit your choices and make you distinctly NOT optimal. Also, seeing blocks is a lot easier if you are CN.
Fridich/LBL Methods- is the second easiest simply because of its extreme structure and ridgedness of solving (compared to the other methods). All you really need to learn to be CN on Fridich is how to switch between colors and how to identify those colors in your cross and f2l; oll and pll are virtually the same.
Roux- is the third hardest method to become CN with because it relies on knowing the colors of each of your blocks in order to build them and thus requires much more thought and memo of piece relations that say Fridich or Petrus.
ZZ- is the hardest method to be CN in because it relies heavily on certain orientations to determine bad and good pieces during inspections. Switching these orientations completely changes how you identify these good and bad pieces, IMO, and it is thus quite hard to do ZZ CN. Then, after EO, you have to do blockbuilding as well.
Wow, that is a very advanced method, I really need to take the time to learn the 2 side Plls by color, I can only do them with about 2/3rds of the PLL's and only about half are relatively instant, the rest require a second or so of thoughtI'll answer this as someone who is CN, as I appear to recognise differently to you. I just see the case generally from whatever angle. The only ones that give me small issues are G Perms, but I recognise from dependant on where I finish the OLL from.
For a T Perm if I'm looking from:
FL: I see an oppositely coloured edge in headlights. This edge, green in the case of picture, is the same as the corner. If it were an R Perm then colour in headlights would be different.
FR: 2 corners which need swapping at the front and at the right. Since the ones on the left and right are the same. The edge is the opposite colour to the FUR piece.
BR: The same as FR just mirrored.
BL: The same as FL just mirrored.
I can usually always recognise what PLL it is from looking at 2 faces but generally, I'll take a peek at a 3rd side to confirm my PLL. I very very rarely do a PLL wrong when I only look from 2 sides.
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