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I wanna get sub1 global I use Yau 3-2-3 edge pairing and practice a lot but I keep getting 1:06+ times. And my cube pops ALOT DURING PLL PARITY
Yau 3-2-3 is very easy to get fast at. Takes alot of practice and some time, but you'll get there. Remember to turn smoothly and at a moderate speed to avoid lockups and pops. (Most of my fastest solves felt super slow anyway! Lol). Also, you might want to tighten whichever layer pops during pll parity. Pops are annoying and you'll want to avoid them as much as possible.
 
Yau 3-2-3 is very easy to get fast at. Takes alot of practice and some time, but you'll get there. Remember to turn smoothly and at a moderate speed to avoid lockups and pops. (Most of my fastest solves felt super slow anyway! Lol). Also, you might want to tighten whichever layer pops during pll parity. Pops are annoying and you'll want to avoid them as much as possible.
Yeah I am actually turning slower it helps a lot also. The yellow pops during pll parity what did u expect lol
 
I'm looking for a 4x4 Parity alg that is Pureflip, I learnt it a while ago and had a PDF with Setups for Parity OLL but i seemed to have lost it. If anyone knows what the alg is, that would be helpful
 
I'm looking for a 4x4 Parity alg that is Pureflip, I learnt it a while ago and had a PDF with Setups for Parity OLL but i seemed to have lost it. If anyone knows what the alg is, that would be helpful
I'm aware of guides like that, but none that is a PDF.

But those types of algs are very plentiful. (I could point you to a list with over 350 such algorithms!)

I am guessing that the alg you learned is one of the following two (or their inverses):
r' U2 l F2 l' F2 r2 U2 r U2 r' U2 F2 r2 F2 (25 quarter turns, 15 half turns)
r2 B2 U2 l U2 r' U2 r U2 F2 r F2 l' B2 r2 (25 quarter turns, 15 half turns)

However, they are considered slow for speedsolving compared to, say, Lucas Parity.
Rw U2 x Rw U2 Rw U2 Rw' U2 Lw U2 Rw' U2 Rw U2 Rw' U2 Rw' (25 quarter turns, 17 half turns)

Yes, that's not a pure flip version, but the general form of it,
Rw U2 Rw F2 Rw F2 Lw' U2 Lw U2 Rw' U2 Rw U2 Rw' U2 Rw' (25 quarter turns, 17 half turns)

can be converted into the "pure" form by rewriting all double turns as single inner slice turns (... well, I left some of the turns as double turns, because they can be and the alg is still "pure"),
Rw U2 Rw F2 2R F2 2L' U2 2L U2 2R' U2 2R U2 Rw' U2 Rw' (25, 17)

Lastly, there are algorithms like cmowla parity (one of mine) which only requires 3 inner slice turns. (All the above require 5 or more.)
x' r2 U2 l' U2 2R U2 l F2 U 2R U' F2 U 2R' U r2 x (23, 16)

(And again, I know of literally several hundred more algs. If you want one with specific types of moves, etc., just ask!)

And I said "pure" in quotes several times, because people actually use that term to describe supercube safe algorithms - algorithms which do not permute any centers. None of the algorithms above appear to permute centers, but they do. (They 2 swaps of centers, swapping the same color with the same color.) Algs like the following are what we refer to as pure. (Not that I personally care, but others have been pretty "touchy" about it in the past!)

Alg by Ben Whitmore... original post is no longer on the web. Linked to a 4x4x4 supercube applet to show that the net effect does not disrupt any centers!
2R' U' 2U 2R U' 2R U 2R 2U' 2R' 2U 2R U 2R U' 2R u' 2R' U2 (20, 19)
 
I average like 1:30-1:40 with redux on 4x4, and I want to improve.
Which step should I improve on?
Here are my splits and some comments:
Centres: 15-18 seconds
With centres, I start on white or yellow always, then do the other 4, and I rotate a lot. Is rotations on centres something I should try improve?
Edge pairing: 45-50 seconds
I do one edge at a time, in a random order, often spending up to 10 seconds for the next 2 pieces. I rotate so much during this step, but I don't know how to improve.
3x3 stage: 30 seconds
Parity obviously slows me down, but mainly it's the fact that I have to do cross without inspection.

I use redux, and have no intention of switching to yau, I've tried it many times, and it doesn't seem to work for me.

Hope someone can help.
 
There's no need to restrict yourself to white/yellow centers first with reduction. Feel free to take advantage of lucky starts on other colors. If you use BOGR (booger) to remember the color order for white/yellow, come up with two more mnemonics for the other colors. I use BWGY (boogie) for red and OWRY (awry) for blue.

I have no idea how to deal with the first four edges in reduction, so I just stuck with Yau since it made more sense to me. After four edges are done, you could put all your solved edges on the D layer and proceed to 3-2-3 or 6-2 edge pairing, which are very efficient and fast.

Have you tried Hoya? It's the same idea as Yau---build your cross partway through reduction, but the way you build those cross edges is very different, so maybe it will make more sense to you.
 
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