1. Yellow cross has two pieces already solved and you can easily finish that cross in five moves (starting white-top green-front): F' D R' B2' D'.
2. Even if you're doing the white cross, don't do the cross on top. (Okay, I'm sort of guilty of this too, but I'm sub-20 and you're not.) The only situations where it's okay to start with your cross colour on top are if you can see that you'll be using a Rw2 or similar to finish off the cross, or if you're doing OH, neither of which is applicable here.
3. Last cross edge: the x' y' rotation hurts. Also, you did U R' U, which I assume is to pull out F2L pieces, which is good, but…
4. First pair choice: you don't even use the pieces you just pulled out!!!! Those (red-green) are the most obvious pieces to use for your first pair. For example, you could've done z' U L' U' L U' R' U' R. Blue-orange is also pretty obvious since the pieces are right next to each other. (Not to say that blue-red is bad (it's not), but it's not the easiest option. It looks like you waste half a second looking for an F2L pair to do.)
5. First pair execution: instead of a y rotation, consider a y' rotation so you solve the pair to the back instead of a front slot.
6. Second pair: you did two rotations for a case that didn't need a single rotation… (L' U' L U' L' U L) Also, too much needless AUFing. (That said, probably a good thing that you rotated to leave the unsolved slots at the front.)
7. Third pair: consider using a sledgehammer for edge control. (In this specific setup, it actually leads to a bad last slot case if you want to preserve edge orientation, but edge control is generally a good idea.)
8. Fourth pair: another unnecessary rotation. (Try U L' U' L U' L' U' L or F2 U R U' R' F2.) Use U moves to look at pieces on the top layer, rather than rotating.
9. OLL: learn this OLL case; it's basically just a Sune: l' U' L U' L' U2 l.
10. OCLL: why Niklas instead of a Sune? (Might or might not be a bad thing, but U R' U' R U' R' U2 R is probably faster.)
2. Even if you're doing the white cross, don't do the cross on top. (Okay, I'm sort of guilty of this too, but I'm sub-20 and you're not.) The only situations where it's okay to start with your cross colour on top are if you can see that you'll be using a Rw2 or similar to finish off the cross, or if you're doing OH, neither of which is applicable here.
3. Last cross edge: the x' y' rotation hurts. Also, you did U R' U, which I assume is to pull out F2L pieces, which is good, but…
4. First pair choice: you don't even use the pieces you just pulled out!!!! Those (red-green) are the most obvious pieces to use for your first pair. For example, you could've done z' U L' U' L U' R' U' R. Blue-orange is also pretty obvious since the pieces are right next to each other. (Not to say that blue-red is bad (it's not), but it's not the easiest option. It looks like you waste half a second looking for an F2L pair to do.)
5. First pair execution: instead of a y rotation, consider a y' rotation so you solve the pair to the back instead of a front slot.
6. Second pair: you did two rotations for a case that didn't need a single rotation… (L' U' L U' L' U L) Also, too much needless AUFing. (That said, probably a good thing that you rotated to leave the unsolved slots at the front.)
7. Third pair: consider using a sledgehammer for edge control. (In this specific setup, it actually leads to a bad last slot case if you want to preserve edge orientation, but edge control is generally a good idea.)
8. Fourth pair: another unnecessary rotation. (Try U L' U' L U' L' U' L or F2 U R U' R' F2.) Use U moves to look at pieces on the top layer, rather than rotating.
9. OLL: learn this OLL case; it's basically just a Sune: l' U' L U' L' U2 l.
10. OCLL: why Niklas instead of a Sune? (Might or might not be a bad thing, but U R' U' R U' R' U2 R is probably faster.)
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