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Review of Main 3x3x3 Cube Models and Clarification on the Naming System of Type A

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Feanaro

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Eh... I always thought the Icon was just a storebought with bad stickers. Rubik's products are inconsistent. You can get a really fast storebought if you're lucky. Also the Icon is not popular, so I probably won't review it... or buy it.

Well, I've tried about 7 different icons, and they feel pretty consistently good. Just like the 25th year cube. But you could mention it in the description of the storebought perhaps.
 

royzabeast

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New Type A III
3607573861_10a02c9c1a_o.jpg
3607573837_4dda097b7c_o.jpg


Resistance to pops: 9.5
Resistance to lock ups: 8.5
Ability to cut corners: 7.5
Speed: 9
Average score: 8.63
Overall score: B to A

Weight: Very Light
Need to break in: Yes
Feel: Rough, Noisy
Best Tension: Average-Tight

Comments: An improvement from the Type III. The storeowner has informed me that most Hong Kong speedcubers use this cube over the New Type A II. This cube needs a slight break into get rid of some rough edges to start out with. Most people will find that this cube jams a lot to start out with, but give it some time and break it in. Maybe this is just me, but the jams have disappeared within a day of heavy usage. Maybe it is the case that the hardware gets better or maybe it is just really easy to get used to this cube. This cube is better in tighter than average settings. According to the “new naming system,” this cube is also called Type A (third model).

Can someone hit me up with a link to this exact cube? Because since this one is also called "Type A (third Model)" I just want to make sure I get this one.
 
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Eh... I always thought the Icon was just a storebought with bad stickers. Rubik's products are inconsistent. You can get a really fast storebought if you're lucky. Also the Icon is not popular, so I probably won't review it... or buy it.

I have one, I'll get it back out and check it but as I recall it is like either the JSK or the Rubiks DIY. Of course I don't ever use it, just got it for collection.

Also I responded in your other post but I think that both .222 and .333 Dian Sheng cubes can be either colored or stickered and as you alluded to on our youtube hybrid video the difference is in the cubies. You might want to edit the guide to reflect that.
 

pentrixter

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Eh, don't bother reviewing it. It's not likely the the Rubik's Icon will be a good cube when compared to other DIYs.

You replied? I don't see it... I'm not sure what I alluded to myself. Was it the point about how the differences between 222 and 333 are pretty much random?
 
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Eh, don't bother reviewing it. It's not likely the the Rubik's Icon will be a good cube when compared to other DIYs.

You replied? I don't see it... I'm not sure what I alluded to myself. Was it the point about how the differences between 222 and 333 are pretty much random?

What you asked about the cubies being different on the .222 it made me think. So I searched Ebay and the .222's that I found all had different cubies than the dianshengs we have. The ones I saw (the 222s) had cubies like the mini dianshengs. Roc and I have both colored and stickered Dianshengs but all of them have the same "chopped" cubies.

So until I see a picture of a .222 with chopped cubies I'm guessing that this is the main difference between the two. What are your thoughts?
 

pentrixter

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If that's what you wanted me to add, then it's already in my guide. I always thought that was the difference but I'm not so sure anymore. What I might need to add to the guide is the fact that both 222s and 333s come in stickered/non-stickered and weird/normal cubied versions. You think that's true?
 
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Edisons don't pop at all and don't even feel like they are going to pop, so a 10 on tendency to pop.

Edison do pop on occasion believe it or not. It's just extremely rare. Watch my video: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=kqAA2QLAYm4&feature=channel_page

In my opinion, besides their weight, Edisons are the best cubes. You can be violent with them and they won't lockup or pop. I would give them a 9.5 on tendency to pop, though not like it makes much difference.

Other than that, GREAT JOB on the whole post!
 

cheiney

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I have the JSK if you'd like me to do a review for it. Also, the New Type A Third Model you show in the pictures looks much different than the Third Model I have seen previously. The one I'm familiar with is nearly an exact replica of the Second Model. The only difference between the two is that it has one of the edge caps rather than two. The one I see in the pictures looks like a completely different cube, almost an enhanced version of the original Type A III.
 

pentrixter

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@Phillip: I never agreed with Vulosity in the first place. It has always been a 9.5 for resistance to popping.

@cheiny: Correct. That's exactly what I said in the first section of the review, "The Naming System of Type A." You might find that in interesting read.

I have watched your youtube review on the JSK so unless you have something else to say, I have already know your feelings toward that cube. I have also tried out the JSK and I can't say I agree with you. It's lightning fast, but does not really cut corners. If I loosen it, it will be able to cut more corners but will jam a lot. I prefer a cube that cannot cut corners, but jams less.
 

cheiney

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Sorry for overlooking it before, I was mainly focusing on the diagrams of the edges on the picture. I should've looked more carefully in the text.

As for the JSK review I did, it was within the first couple days that I got it. I was so excited to do a review about it that I completely forgot that it might not even be fully broken in yet. It's been months since I've filmed it, and I feel like my opinion has changed about it. It was pretty solid outside of the box, but the screws seem to loosen easily, especially on the yellow face of the cube. It might have been simply from my forceful turning, or it could've been from the screw itself. Surprisingly, though, I don't seem to jam up that much, but I do start getting pops more often. I think that may be related to the screw, because it never pops unless yellow faces up. The jams may be overlooked by its persistent popping. Overall, I wanted to try it out because I planned on ordering for comparison with the American Rubik's brand DIY.

EDIT: It's kind of misleading to say it pops without an actual "jam", but the pieces seem to fall out more so than they do pop. I'm almost positive it's the screw. I don't use the JSK much anymore, however, so I can't say that the problem was temporary.
 
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pentrixter

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Well there's also the question of whether you got a good JSK or not. I'm not sure if Megahouse's products are very consistent. It doesn't make sense that only the yellow side gives. My friend has been using his JSK and he doesn't seem to have a screw a problem. Jams and pops for the JSK would be directly proportional to your tension settings. When I was playing with the JSK, I set it to tighter settings. How about you?

Also, how did it compared to the Rubiks.com DIY? (other than the fact that the JSK has better center caps.)
 
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If that's what you wanted me to add, then it's already in my guide. I always thought that was the difference but I'm not so sure anymore. What I might need to add to the guide is the fact that both 222s and 333s come in stickered/non-stickered and weird/normal cubied versions. You think that's true?

I know it's true that both models come either stickered or colored. And I have no proof that our dianshengs that are not painted on anything other than .333's so I need to fix my annotations. In the meantime if anyone sees a picture of a .222 package that has the chopped cubies please post a link! If we can't find one I say we assume the .222 is the one with the whole cubies and that that is the only difference. I'm ordering several from Rubiks fans on payday to confirm.

Also with regards to the JSK, I'm modding one right now and I plan to publish results in a new hybrid video. Suffice to say I have experienced the popping issue similar to what cheiney described as the peice just "falling out." In addition after Jig A Loo and breaking in I've noticed what seems to be a loosening of screws that is similar to an issue I've had with the Rubik's DIY mods i'm working on.

The Rubiks DIY mods are exciting but I have to wait until I get paid so I can order an authentic sheng en type B from eBay in order to take another shot at the world record cube. I'm under the impression that the type B's you can get from cube4you are either counterfiets or don't have the same attributes of a plain black type B because of their paint or transparency. Once I have the actualy sheng en B I can complete my experiment and then I'll be ready with a definitive opinion on the world record hybrid as well as other things you can do to make Rubik's DIYs very very good cubes.
 
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