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Thread: How to Make R3 better than DIY

  1. #71
    Member dillonbladez's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by puzzlemaster View Post
    Quote Originally Posted by ManSkirtBrew View Post
    I just tried this with my el cheapo Rubik's brand. The kind that comes in the plastic clamshell with a stand.

    The last step seems to have made the biggest difference. I used a Dremel with a round burr to take the high parts under the centers down.

    It smoothed the cube out quite a bit, but it is still tight. My hands are sore from just a few solves. It also doesn't back cut even a tiny bit, which is causing me a lot of lockups.

    Any other solutions for loosening these bad boys up?

    -Joe
    Throw it at a wall.
    Buy a core and hardware set.
    I'm telling you, well modded storebought cubies with a type A core+hardware
    I have official sub-20 avg :)BLD checklist: Corners: nope. Edges, --owait... i lost >.<

  2. #72
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    i used to break in store boughts with dirt, but i switched to using comet cleaner, its just abrasive enough. a little messy but it works well

  3. #73
    Member Anonymous's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by dillonbladez View Post
    Quote Originally Posted by puzzlemaster View Post
    Quote Originally Posted by ManSkirtBrew View Post
    I just tried this with my el cheapo Rubik's brand. The kind that comes in the plastic clamshell with a stand.

    The last step seems to have made the biggest difference. I used a Dremel with a round burr to take the high parts under the centers down.

    It smoothed the cube out quite a bit, but it is still tight. My hands are sore from just a few solves. It also doesn't back cut even a tiny bit, which is causing me a lot of lockups.

    Any other solutions for loosening these bad boys up?

    -Joe
    Throw it at a wall.
    Buy a core and hardware set.
    I'm telling you, well modded storebought cubies with a type A core+hardware
    I thought that most people agreed that C4Y has the best hardware?

  4. #74
    Member dillonbladez's Avatar
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    I wouldn't. I would say that Maru did.

    I guess there is no good or bad hardware, but then again, you have to draw a line. There's nothing wrong with Type A hardware, though. I think it's particularly good for my cube. Each Hardware sets should have different "abilites"
    I have official sub-20 avg :)BLD checklist: Corners: nope. Edges, --owait... i lost >.<

  5. #75
    Member ~Phoenix Death~'s Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by dillonbladez View Post
    I wouldn't. I would say that Maru did.

    I guess there is no good or bad hardware, but then again, you have to draw a line. There's nothing wrong with Type A hardware, though. I think it's particularly good for my cube. Each Hardware sets should have different "abilites"
    Reminds me of RPGs!
    FirefoxFreeze/PhoenixDeath Member of the Avengers, the South-California Cubing Group. Moderator at SpeedCubeShop.com TUTORIAL: How to Sub-1 Magic

  6. #76
    Member dillonbladez's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by ~Phoenix Death~ View Post
    Quote Originally Posted by dillonbladez View Post
    I wouldn't. I would say that Maru did.

    I guess there is no good or bad hardware, but then again, you have to draw a line. There's nothing wrong with Type A hardware, though. I think it's particularly good for my cube. Each Hardware sets should have different "abilites"
    Reminds me of RPGs!
    Lol, my mind went blank at the time, so thats the only word that could work... at the time.
    Thats why I put quotations lol
    I have official sub-20 avg :)BLD checklist: Corners: nope. Edges, --owait... i lost >.<

  7. #77

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    I finally found some heavy duty CRC silicone at a local auto parts store. I applied two small shots and holy-poop-on-a-stick is it better! It's like a completely different cube now.

    It cuts just over 1/2 of a cubelet now and is smooth and fast. Thanks for the mod!

    -Joe

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