EOline

I thought that you only had to worry about the 4 edges in F2L when checking for good or bad edges. Now its 12? >.< I'm starting to get the good edge bad edge more now but I still cant find my own EOLines at all.

This is good though because fridrich was becoming a little stale and now i have something to learn besides pages of LL algs

In EOLine you are trying to take care of ALL bad edges round the whole cube, not just F2L. This means there can be between 0 and twelve bad edges. Because of the laws of the cube there is always an even number of 'bad' edges, hence the 0, 2, 4, 6, 8, 10 and 12. By the end of the EOLine phase, every edge should be correctly oriented, and there should be no bad edges left - this is what makes ZZ so cool

Matthew said:

scramble: B2 F2 D L R2 D' L' B F2 D2 L2 B' R F U2 L' B2 R' D2 L2 B' R2 F U2 B2 (blue on front, yellow on top)

you have 6 flipped edges..

EOLine: R L2 B F' L' F'

Click to expand...

The DR-DL line can be done in 5 moves: F L' D' R D' y.

Matthew said:

L' U' L' U' L U' L2 U L

Click to expand...

Alternative: U L U2 L' U L2. (http://lar5.com/cube/blox.html)

Spooter said:

If someone can give me a website or just some information that can help me with the concept of finding the edges as well as solving that would be great.

Click to expand...

I've updated my ZZ page to include a bunch of four-edge orientation cases with optimal solutions. Given that most EO cases are solved in groups of four, understanding these cases, should hopefully make understanding EO a bit easier.

See http://cube.crider.co.uk/#eo_cases

PS: Sorry for the uber bump

OMGitsSolved said:

I mean sometimes I come out with an odd number of edges and sometimes I get an even number but I fail to orient them correctly and sometimes I just can't find a way track all of the edges to orient them.

Click to expand...

For detection of 'bad' edges, you just need look at specific stickers on the cube and apply this rule (assuming you're solving with yellow-top, blue-front)

(1) If the sticker facing you is red/orange, the edge is bad (put your finger on it).

(2) Otherwise look at the sticker on the side, if the side is white/yellow it's bad (put your finger on it).

Apply the rule to the top and bottom surfaces of U and D, and the front/back surfaces of the E-slice edges.


To solve, the general idea is to create an easy as possible 4-edge case. If it's an 8-edger, think of the possible ways to place 4 of them into one face, and the 4-edge case which results when they get wiped out. Similarly with 6-edgers, position 3 in one face, then make the F/B turn which leaves a nice 4-edge case. For 10-edgers, I normally position 8 edges in F/B first, then treat it as a 2-edger. An easy way to do this is to look at the two oriented edges and place them both somewhere in the S-slice. Generally, you need to build up a good sense of what a good 4-edge case is. I'd recommend practicing and becoming familiar with all the 4-edge cases here:
http://cube.crider.co.uk/zz.php?p=eoline#eo_cases


Good luck with it...

Cride5 said:

For detection of 'bad' edges, you just need look at specific stickers on the cube and apply this rule (assuming you're solving with yellow-top, blue-front)

(1) If the sticker facing you is red/orange, the edge is bad (put your finger on it).

(2) Otherwise look at the sticker on the side, if the side is white/yellow it's bad (put your finger on it).

Apply the rule to the top and bottom surfaces of U and D, and the front/back surfaces of the E-slice edges.

Click to expand...

Very short and the best color based definition I've seen so far.

That is exactly how I look at it. Must admit I learnt from Conrad's site...

My cube orientation: green or blue in front, with yellow or white on top.

How do you put bad edges in one layer without messing any other edges up? Is it with RUL moves?

(noob question)

Hershey said:

How do you put bad edges in one layer without messing any other edges up? Is it with RUL moves?

(noob question)

Click to expand...

RULDB2F2

irontwig said:

RULDB2F2

Click to expand...

Oh...

I learned ZZ yesterday... EOLine just takes getting used to.
I simply detect all bad edges (check- it'll always be even) then put 4 in the F/B face, then continue... I either get another 4, or 2. I can't find a good way to combine EO and Line though...

5BLD said:

then put 4 in the F/B face, then continue...

Click to expand...

If you have 6 bad edges this is not the best approach...
Place 3 bad edges, single F/B turn and then you have 4 bad ones left (the 4th edge in the face goes from good to bad)

Ok, thanks, I'm going to do that from now on.
My approach was just the simplest to start with...

The main ZZ page explains EOline quite terribly. It took me a long time to even understand what the overall goal of EOline was.

What's the main ZZ page?

I think he means Crides site, and doesn't realize.

Anyway, switched to zz a few days ago, 200 solves later and I'm only like 2 seconds slower with this then cfop, I'm starting to get faster at planning out eoline, i can plan it out now without putting fingers on the bad edges, i feel pro

ok i started with ZZ seriously now.
some questions i have:
is anyone colorneutral or partial colorneutral? if so how many colors can you use on F and U and how does your general planning approach for the easiest orientation work?
i practised with blue/green on F and white/yellow on top. (so the recognition-rules stay the same) if i am used to this scheme alone would it be good to choose for example blue as F for all solves? this way i would probably speed up my recognition for F2L (e.g. every blue piece would have to go to FR or FL)

during F2L if you do not see any obvious block what is your attempt? choosing some random pieces for blockbuilding or finishing the cross? (or maybe others?)

is it necessary to build the line after EO? i often do some blockbuilding before and just finish the F2L without rotations and single F/B-turns. this also seems to work pretty well and you have more freedom by doing F2/B2 for blockbuilding. what are your experiences with this?

(btw i only use ZZ for OH (3 seconds slower than fridrich) and not for 2H (5 seconds slower))

EricReese said:

Anyway, switched to zz a few days ago, 200 solves later and I'm only like 2 seconds slower with this then cfop, I'm starting to get faster at planning out eoline, i can plan it out now without putting fingers on the bad edges, i feel pro

Click to expand...

EricReese said:

Put a finger on each misoriented edge. Recognition of bad edges will come with time. I can recognize bad edges fairly quickly but I still have to put a finger on each edge though for planning out EOLine. Just practice and use kittens link

Click to expand...

Posted 4 weeks ago :/
http://www.speedsolving.com/forum/showthread.php?29106-EOLine-(ZZ-method)-help.&p=570635#post570635

fatboyxpc said:

Posted 4 weeks ago :/
http://www.speedsolving.com/forum/showthread.php?29106-EOLine-(ZZ-method)-help.&p=570635#post570635

Click to expand...

I wasn't using it as my main back then. Only in just casual solves

General: I´m partial color neutral (white,green,orange) with no F/B-restrictions. In my opinion color neutrality doesn´t really affect the movecount of your Eo-Line/F2l very much, but you will get much better executions.
Opposite color neutrality doesn´t affect the movecount + execution too much (and if b 1 move but only in 1/10000000 of the cases).
Personally I don´t really care about the best solution of the orientation. The movecount of the Eo-Line will be much lower if you sometimes do some werid solutions for the orientation, but preserve edges in thier solved position.
But in general I try to avoid cases like this: first/all bad edges on front ecept for FU; other bad edge at BL/BR/BD...
Having a fixed F is not really good in my opinion. After maybe 100-200 solves you get used to the nonresctricted F-solving...

F2L: I check if there´s an E-sliceedge at the right side + D-corners of this side on U/opposite side, if yes I solve the Eslice of the side+ L2/R2. Then I pair up the resting pieces of this side and solve it. If not, I´m sure that I didn´t see a good block...
Finishing cross is bad, because you could solve much more pieces with the same movecount. Just get yourself to know that you can build up one whole side by ~10moves one average(optimal solution/not optimal maybe +1 or 2). If you now waste maybe 5 moves solving the cross...

Line thing: I think it´s personal preference. Myself would never do that, because it´ll destroy ma lookahead (especially if something at BD). Plus doesn´t it create some avoidable D-turns?
Using F2/B2 doesn´t seem pretty good for me. It´ll don´t affect the movecount that much. I only do something similair if I´d get a X-Eo-Line after it.

@btw: If you´re only using ZZ for OH I would advise you to learn 2GLL(Setup+1l-LL= 6,875 + 12,1 moves). This would maybe safe yourself like 8 moves (because the optimal solutions of the cases are mostly RU)
If you plan to use ZZ for 2H ZZLL would be definetly the way to go (my opinion) with ZZLL the movecount would be reduced by 5 more moves for the whole solve.